Crochet Baby Cardigan Pattern (The Ella Cardie)

Learn to crochet the adorable Ella Crochet Baby Cardigan with my FREE pattern!

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A SWEET, ELEGANT DESIGN

I love crocheting baby items and when I heard we had a new arrival in the family I decided to turn my hand to designing a sweet little cardigan for the new baby!

Cardigans are perfect for layering and can be used all year round, making them so practical. Throw them over a little spring or summer dress, or use one as an extra layer to keep baby cosy and warm during the colder winter months.

Whatever season you’re in now, you can be sure that baby will get good use out of it.

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QUICK & EASY PROJECT

Offered in three different sizes, this crochet baby cardigan pattern is a quick and easy project for you as there’s no seaming or tricky assembly.

The pattern is the same for all three sizes (newborn, 0 – 3 months, 3 – 6 months) – all you need to do is switch up the hook size.

SIMPLE, TOP-DOWN DESIGN

The Ella cardie is a top-down design, so you’ll begin working from the neck edge downwards. The yoke of the cardigan is easy as it’s made up from alternating rows of single and double crochet.

For the skirt section, I decided to incorporate a special cluster stitch, which is made from a combination of a double crochet and half double crochet.

This type of cluster stitch is not difficult, your hook will be able to handle it with ease, and it creates a really lovely texture.

Once you’ve completed the main body of the cardigan, you’ll make your sleeves and then finish the cardie off with a simple edging of single crochet stitches… it couldn’t be any easier!

A PERFECT BABY SHOWER GIFT

The Ella baby cardigan with its simple design would make a lovely gift.

Most people are thrilled to receive a unique, handmade present for their baby… it certainly makes a lovely change from all the mass produced garments we seem to be surrounded with.

You can make the Ella cardigan just on its own, or team it with the matching hat, booties and blanket.

YARN USED

For this crochet baby cardigan pattern, I used 1 ball of Deramores Studio Baby Soft DK Acrylic.

Made from 100% acrylic, this yarn is so soft with a gorgeous, subtle sheen.

The softness and silkiness of this yarn gives the Ella crochet baby cardigan a lovely drape.

And these qualities result in excellent stitch definition also – a great feature if you’re fairly new to crochet.

The yarn is also anti-pilling and machine washable (a must when making baby items!).

This award-winning yarn currently comes in 20 beautiful colours to choose from, ranging from pretty pastel and neutral shades to bright colours that truly pop.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

Crochet along with me to make this baby cardigan! Just click on the play button below:

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ELLA CROCHET BABY CARDIGAN: A FREE PATTERN

Pleasecarefully readall the information below

LEVEL

Easy. See details of project difficulty levels at theCraft Yarn Councilwebsite.

MATERIALS

Yarn: Category #3 / light worsted / DK / 8 ply yarn. I used 1 ball of Deramores Studio Baby Soft DK Acrylic,360 yds / 3.5 oz (330m / 100g). For the cream cardigan I used the colour Ice Cream (70102); for the beige cardigan, I used the colour Sand (70124).
Crochet hook: Newborn G (4mm); 0–3 months Size 7 (4.5mm); 3–6 months H (5mm)
3 buttons: 9/16 inch (14mm) approximately
Yarn needle (the bent tip makes sewing and weaving in ends much easier)
Scissors (super sharp… and pretty)
Optional: Stitch markers x 2

GAUGE / TENSION

In order to achieve thecorrect size and fit, it is important to test your gauge with a sample square before you begin.

If your tension istight(too many stitches to 4″), try using alargerhook.

If your tension is loose(fewer stitches to 4″), use asmallerhook.

Newborn (G / 4mm hook):

18 stitches & 10 rows = 4″ (10cm) in double crochet

0 – 3 months (size 7 / 4.5mm hook):

26 stitches & 15 rows = 6” (15cm) in double crochet

3 – 6 months (H / 5mm hook):

16 stitches & 9 rows = 4” in double crochet

FINISHED SIZE

The sizes given are based on the standard measurements from the Craft Yarn Council. The cardigan has been designed with some positive ease, which means that it will quite comfortably fit over clothing. And knowing how quickly babies tend to develop, it will leave enough room for baby to grow into also!

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

beg – beginning

ch(s) – chain(s)

dc – double crochet: Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops. 1 double crochet completed.

dc2tog – double crochet two together (also known as a dc decrease): Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yo, pull through remaining 3 loops. Dc2tog completed.

fasten off – To fasten off securely, work one chain, then cut the yarn leaving a 5 – 6” tail. Pull the tail through the loop that is on your hook. Tighten gently.

sc – single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Yo, pull through both loops on hook. 1 single crochet completed.

sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over (yo), pull up a loop, you will have 2 loops on your hook. Pull the first loop through the second loop. 1 slip stitch completed.

st(s) – stitch(es)

Turn: I prefer to turn my work clockwise.

* to * – Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.

( ) – Sets of stitches to be worked as many times as directed.

[ ] – The total number of stitches at the end of a row.

SPECIAL STITCHES

SpCL – special cluster: 1 double crochet and 1 half double crochet worked together as follows: yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through first 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into same stitch, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops. 1 special cluster completed.

PATTERN NOTES

US crochet terms used.
There are three sizes available: newborn, 0-3 months and 3-6 months. The instructions are the same for all three sizes – all you need to do is use a different sized crochet hook to achieve each size.
Cardigan is worked in one piece from neck edge down.
The ch3 turning chain counts as the first stitch of the next row; please do not crochet into the same stitch. Instead, make one double crochet into the next stitch. At the end of rows, it’s important that you crochet into the top of the beginning ch3.
The ch1 turning chain does not count as the first stitch of the next row. Therefore, you should make the first stitch of the row in the same stitch (at the base of the ch1). At the end of rows, do not crochet into the top of the ch1.
For the sleeves:The ch2 turning chain counts as the first stitch of the next round; please do not crochet into the same stitch. Instead, make one double crochet into the next stitch. At the end of rounds, you will slip stitch into the top of the beginning ch2 to join.
You can use any #3 / light worsted / DK / 8 ply yarn for this project, providing you meet the gauge as detailed above.

INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE

Chain 57

Row 1. 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in every ch until end of the foundation chain, TURN [56 sts].

Row 2. Ch3 (counts as your first st here and throughout), 1dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [70sts].

Row 3. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 69 sts, TURN (70 sts).

Row 4. Ch3, 1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [84sts].

Row 5. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 83 sts, TURN (84 sts).

Row 6. Ch3, 1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [98 sts].

Row 7. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 97 sts, TURN (98sts).

Row 8. Ch3, 1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [112 sts].

Row 9. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 111 sts, TURN (112sts).

Row 10. Ch3, 1dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across to end of row, TURN [126 sts].

Row 11. Ch1 (does not count as your first st here and throughout), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 125 sts, TURN (126 sts).

At this point, the length from the neck edge to the end of row 11 should measure:

Newborn: 2.5″

0-3 months: 3.25″

3 – 6 months: 3.5″

DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES

In row 12 you will create two little armholes.

Row 12. Ch3, 1dc in next 17 sts, sk next 27 sts, 1dc in next 36 sts, sk next 27 sts, 1dc in next 18 sts, TURN [72 sts].

As you can see from the image below, you have divided your onesie for the sleeves and have created two armholes:

Row 13. Ch3, SpCL in next 70 sts, 1hdc in top of beg ch3 TURN [ch3, 70 SpCL, 1hdc].

Rows 14 – 26: Repeat Row 13.

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.

Here is what your work should be looking like at the end of row 26:

SLEEVES

It’s time to work on the sleeves now.

You will be working into the 27 stitches that you skipped in row 12 (I placed 1 stitch marker in both the 1^st and 27^th st, as seen in the photo below).

3 extra stitches will also be created, giving you a total of 30 stitches when working the sleeves:

With your cardigan facing you as seen in the photo below, attach your yarn to the centre stitch at the underarm area:

Round 1. Ch2 (counts as your first st here and throughout), 1dc in next dc row end, 1dc in next 27 sts, 1dc in next dc row end, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, TURN [30 sts].

Round 2. Ch1 (does not count as your 1^st st here and throughout), 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 29 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join, TURN [30 sts].

Round 3. Ch2, 1dc in next 29 sts, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, TURN, [30 sts].

Round 4. Ch1, 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 29 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join, TURN [30 sts].

Rounds 5 – 14: Repeat rounds 3 and 4.

Round 15: Ch2, dc2tog. 1dc in next 25 sts, dc2tog, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, TURN, [28 sts].

Round 16: Ch1, 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 27 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join, TURN [28 sts].

Round 17: Ch2, dc2tog. 1dc in next 23 sts, dc2tog, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, TURN, [26 sts].

Round 18: Ch1, 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 25 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join, TURN [26 sts].

Round 19: Ch2, 1dc in next 25 sts, sl st to top of beg ch2 to join, TURN, [26 sts].

Round 20: Ch1, 1sc in same st, 1sc in next 25 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join, TURN [26 sts].

At the end of round 20, cut your yarn, fasten off and weave in your ends.

Repeat the same process for the other sleeve.

FRONT, NECK AND BOTTOM EDGING

I decided to work single crochet edging up the right front panel (3 button loops will also be made), around the neckline, down the left front panel and around the bottom of the cardigan.

The edging is made in one continuous round.

To begin, attach your yarn to the opening of the cardigan, at the bottom of the right front panel:

Round 1.

Edging up right front panel:

Ch1, (2sc in each SpCL row end) 13 times, (1sc, ch3) in next dc row end, 1sc in next sc row end (1^st button loop made), 1sc in next dc row end, 1sc in next sc row end, (1sc, ch3) in next dc row end, 1sc in next sc row end (2^nd button loop made), 1sc in next dc row end, 1sc in next sc row end, 1sc in next dc row end, (1sc, ch3) in next sc row end, 1sc in last dc row end (3^rd button loop made),

Edging along neckline:

2sc in corner st at neck edge, 1sc in each st along neckline, 2sc in corner st at neck edge on the left side,

Edging down left front panel:

(1sc in next sc row end, 1 sc in next dc row end) 6 times, (2sc in each SpCL row end) 13 times,

Edging along bottom:

*2sc in next SpCL, 1sc in next SpCL*, repeat from * to * until 1^st sc of the round, sl st to 1^st sc to join round.